THE ADVENTURES OF TWO AMHS “BEST OF FRIENDS” IN MOLISE
Our wonderful Italian adventure began in November 2016, when Maria and I attended a presentation in Casa Italiana by Jenifer Landor, Executive Director of Live and Learn Italian (Maria wrote about this visit/meeting in the January 2017 AMHS Notiziario).
About five years ago, Jenifer began an immersion course in the town of Agnone, in Molise, where her ancestors originated. (Her grandfather came from the town, and his cousins worked at the famous La Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli, founded in 1040AD, known world-wide for their exceptional bells which grace many famous churches and monuments across Italy and the world. In fact, it is the oldest surviving family business in the western world).
Jenifer’s idea for the program was to bring people to Agnone to take advantage of a relatively remote location, where students could experience a “tourism-free” town in one of the least known areas in Italia. The natives in this village in Alto Molise speak only in Italian…well, most of them. Jenifer has many people helping her out on this venture in Agnone, as we would come to learn. Even if they do speak English, they play along, and that is truly a wonderful opportunity for a student interested in improving his language skills. Agnone is small, but full of historical significance, and is known as “la citta’ dell’ arte.” And, indeed, it is full of ancient traditions in artisan work in silver, copper, and iron. It is also famous for many culinary delights, such as scamorza cheese.
Maria and I decided on the spot after hearing Jenifer’s presentation that this would be the perfect vehicle for us to finally plan our long dreamed of trip together to Italy. The Live and Learn Program is a two-week immersion program, and the first summer session began on June 10. Because of Maria’s busy work schedule, she would have to join me for the second week of the two-week course (June 17), after which we would continue our travels through Italy. We decided we wanted to rent a car and see other parts of Molise, which we had each previously visited separately.
We also decided that we wanted to visit the new “it” region, Puglia. I arrived in Rome on my birthday, Saturday June 10, and after being picked up at the airport, along with five other students by our driver, Fernando, we were in Agnone in about 2½ hours. Our group of students consisted of four lovely ladies from the London area, Anne, Rita, Brenda and Jeni, and another man, Bart, who, incredibly, lives in Alexandria! Our classes were held in the centro storico, just off the Piazza Plebiscito each day during the week for three hours beginning at 10:00am. We were split into two groups and the time was divided between Alessandro for the first half and, then after our break, we continued with the second half of class with Luca or vice versa.
The lessons concentrated on grammar and verb conjugation as one would expect, but not only that. We also were introduced to new ways of exposure to the language and useful vocabulary built around current events in America and Great Britain which promoted conversation. Other days we played creative games which, again, tested our comprehension of the Italian language, and how to apply it in everyday situations. We also read short stories followed by answering questions about what we read. Each day we were given homework assignments which we went over together in the next class. Both instructors were wonderful and extremely patient with our language limitations. In fact, they also offered personalized lessons separate from the classroom. It was a very rewarding and fun experience
I had visited Agnone briefly in 2006 for lunch and a quick walk through part of the town. I also visited the Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli at that time for an unscheduled and abbreviated private tour. During this visit in June, I saw so much more. I stayed at the Palazzo della Citta’ located on the Piazza Plebiscito, which is the largest piazza in the centro storico. I immediately felt comfortable in this small village of about 5,000. Just across the idyllic piazza there are some small shops, a fountain, a church (one of 14 in Agnone) and a wonderful bar/café called Caffé Letterario. There, we quickly made friends with Vincenzo, Mercede and Ilenia, who work there.
This was where we all came each morning before our daily three-hour Italian class for cappuccino and a cornetto. Halfway through the class we would return for another cappuccino and break. Then, after class finished, we often came back for lunch there, or went elsewhere for a change of scenery. Then, in the evenings, we would return yet again for after dinner wine and/or aperitivo. Whenever we were there, we were always greeted with friendly smiles, and welcoming conversations in Italian. It became our home away from home.
We would even do our homework there, at times. My first full day in Agnone was the celebration of Sant’ Onofrio. It began with an early morning Mass in the centro storico at the Church of Sant’Antonio, which was followed by most of the paesani joining a 4 1/2 mile walk from the town into the outskirts to celebrate the Saint. It was a beautiful way to be introduced to the town and surrounding vistas of mountains, valleys, and flora while enjoying a spectacular day of sunshine.
The tradition of four women carrying the statue to the Madonna Monte Sant’Onofrio Church from the town was quite interesting. We were accompanied by a priest who said mass along the route, along with music and loudspeakers. We made stops for wonderful local delicacies and delicious fresh local cherries three times before continuing to the church. There, after the mass, we had a delicious picnic lunch in the countryside, and met some wonderful people. This was the first of several festas we would participate in during the two-week period of the course.
We were kept quite busy during our stay in Agnone. Besides the trip to Campobasso, we also visited Pietrabbondante, another village close to Agnone, which is home to the famous Samnite temple and other ruins. Afterwards, we traveled through the surrounding countryside along the tratturo Celano Foggia, which is the second longest trek in southern Italia. These ancient paths in Molise (and Abruzzo) were used twice a year for the transhumance (the end of summer and beginning of spring) to move sheep, cows and donkeys from the mountains to the Puglia plains; after our trip along the tratturo, we had dinner at Agriturismo San Mauro.
Jenifer had found a wonderful place yet again for a delicious dinner. The Agriturismo is in the middle of a lovely wooded area, but inside we shared a very delicious and ample cena which used farm-to-table ingredients with wonderful local specialties, great service and company. On another night, we visited a B&B outside of Agnone another night for a wonderful dinner in Maronconi. It was in the countryside on a farm with its own collection of livestock, as well as cats and Pastore Abruzzese dogs, one of which had recently had over 10 puppies!
They were a joy to watch playing. Yet another evening we traveled to the Belmonte del Sannio, which is about three miles from Agnone, for another delicious dinner full of local delights and vino in a quiet borgo. On two different nights, we visited the home of Maria and Giuseppe for cooking demonstrations, dinner, and wonderful company. After dinner, Giuseppe offered several different types of homemade liquors made from produce in his garden. We had the good fortune of fabulous weather which allowed us to eat al fresco in their beautiful garden, while we continued to practice our Italian. Our hostess, Maria, also demonstrated the art of tombolo, which is a style of lace sewing famous in the Isernia province of Molise. Other days, we visited the previously mentioned Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli for a wonderful tour and film.
We also visited Artigianato Artistico di Cav. Filippo D’Aloise, who is the lone remaining working coppersmith in the town, where we had a fascinating discussion on the making of copper and copper artifacts. Yet another day, we toured the Caseificio Di Nucci for a tour of the cheese factory and observation of the special skills involved in producing the renowned scamorza and caciocavallo cheeses. Still other nights we went out for dinners in town, and were never disappointed at places like Caffe’ La Fenice or Pizzeria alla Sante.
Then, after dinner on two different occasions we returned to Palazzo Bonanni, where our classes were held, to watch a film in Italian. We enjoyed the famous Sophia Loren/Marcello Mastroianni films called “Una Giornata Particolare” (A Special Day) and “Matrimonio all’Italiana” (Marriage Italian Style)
This wonderful gem of a town, in Alto Molise is truly full of historical significance and tradition. The real attraction for me was the people. I felt like I could easily have stayed longer, and was a bit sad saying goodbye to our new friends and fellow students. Every day, whether in the supermarkets, restaurants, churches, or on the streets, we would encounter amazing and friendly people who wanted to engage with us in Italian!
There were Enzo, Maurizio, and Walter; Tonina and her two lovely sisters, who own the Bed and Breakfast (B&B) Armonie where two of our group stayed (one morning we all met here for a surprise birthday breakfast for Jenny, who celebrated her 70th birthday in style at Armonie). There was Dottore Giuseppe Paolantonio, his lovely wife Anna, and their wonderful son, Nicola, my long-lost cousins, whom I had the pleasure of meeting on my first full day in Agnone and spent additional time with in their home and on other occasions during our stay! Everyone wanted to acknowledge us as one of their own, it seemed. I have visited Italy many times, but this trip truly stands out in my mind as one of the most unique ways of being “Italianized.” I, for one, am already planning to return in September 2018 to continue my journey of (re)discovery of my Italian heritage.
The day of our departure from Agnone, on Saturday, June 24, Fernando drove us to Isernia to pick up our Fiat Bravo at Zullo Rental. Maria and I drove to Puglia and stayed there four days (more about that in the November Notiziario), and then returned for another three days in Molise, continuing our journey. In Molise, Maria found a lovely B&B called l’Antica Dimora about halfway between Isernia and Campobasso in Macchiagodena, another picturesque town in Molise. This was our home-base for the next three days.
On our first full day, we visited Roccamandolfi, the village where Maria’s father, Lucio, was born. Unfortunately there are not a lot of family members living in the village, so Maria was unable to visit with anyone. However, we made a stop at the Sindaco, hoping to meet the Mayor, but were instead greeted by his assistant whose name just happens to be Maria D’Andrea! Roccamandolfi is a beautiful old town which required lots of walking up and down hills along narrow roads. Afterwards, we savored a beautiful lunch of home-made pasta at Casale Mangimulfi, and got a tour of several of the lovely rooms.
The owners of the hotel/restaurant took very good care of us – apparently the D’Andrea name is quite renowned in the village and also, quite popular given that Maria met at least three other D’Andreas in the village, none of whom are directly related to her!
Maria and I decided to visit Monteroduni on yet another beautiful day, and enjoyed a walk around the town. The town is particularly noteworthy for the impressive Castello Pignatelli. Neither Maria nor I had visited here before, and it was definitely worth a stop. Afterwards, we traveled a short distance outside the town to visit the Campi Valerio. Some years ago, I discovered these wines at Unwined, my favorite wine store in Alexandria.
The Fannio Falanghina, in particular, is a favorite. The winery has produced some great red and white wines on this estate since 1974, which originally belonged to Prince Pignatelli. They concentrate on enhancing the native grapes from this area such as Montepulciano and Tintilia. Unfortunately, the store at the vineyard had just closed when we arrived, but they opened for us when they saw us looking in. I purchased several bottles of wine which we enjoyed during the rest of our vacation, and one special bottle I brought home.
The owners even gifted us a bottle of their own grappa, which we also safely transported home! La Cantinetta, the ristorante on the grounds of Campi Valerio, had, unfortunately, closed for the day. We will need to return for another visit. After the morning trip to Campobasso for our meeting with Michele Petraroia, Regional Counselor for Molise (see article on previus pages), we drove directly to Roccasicura, the town where my grandfather Pietro came from in 1913. I had visited there, maybe, a half a dozen times before, but always love to return.
I wanted Maria to get to see it with me. We eventually arrived after being detoured because of road construction and repair. Immediately, I began noticing some changes in this town of roughly 600 which had occurred during the five years since I had last visited. First, we were greeted by a man driving a fruit and vegetable truck, advertising his goods with a loud speaker. I was a bit stunned. We continued walking to the only restaurant in the town, and made time for a delicious late lunch at Bar Il Pozzo Pizzeria - Ristorante. I have had the pleasure of getting to know the owners, Natalino and Anna, over the years, and always made it a point to stop in for delicious food and wine
Afterwards, we continued our walk around the town. I wanted to visit the home of my cousin Bianca, who died in 2006. The home is still not being lived in, and my dream is to buy it and live there part of the year. We also discovered a recently opened bar/cafeteria called Sotto Sopra very close to the Municipio and San Leonardo Church.
I could not believe it when we discovered it. Not a lot has changed in this medieval town in many years so, of course, we went inside the bar to have a beer, and look around. The transformation from an old abandoned house was quite impressive. The owner was very friendly and they seemed to be doing a good business with patrons inside and outside. It was a very welcome addition to the town. We also visited a new B&B called La Torre dell’Orologio. The B&B is situated directly on the rock which dominates the village with a beautiful 360-degree panorama of the mountains and valleys nearby, including the Mainarde, which is part of the Apennine mountain chain.
The remains of the old castle, which had been largely destroyed by earthquakes in years past, is adjacent to the B&B, along with the clock tower. There were some changes in the town since my last visit…but the clock tower was there, still standing in spite of the frequent earthquakes. I always hate leaving - however, our journey does not end here. Be sure to read about our adventures in Puglia in the November issue of the Notiziario! (To see more of Albert and Maria’s photos from Agnone, visit https://photos.app.goo.gl/LjqE06MmdTGme0Dm2; and for additional photos from Molise, visit https://photos.app.goo.gl/eOpOs1BqDHulapeg1)
A SIDE NOTE:
Maria is working with Jenifer on another visit to Washington, DC in November, centered around the Society’s general meeting on Sunday, November 19. We plan to work in conjunction with Joe Lupo, Director of the Casa Italiana Language School, on a program by Jenifer to discuss the Live and Learn Italian program and Agnone. We hope that those of you with an interest in an Italian language immersion program will join us for this event.