FINDING A LITTLE BIT OF ITALY IN PORTUGAL
Wherever I travel, I always seek an Italian connection. Travelling to Portugal this past May did not disappoint. Whether in Lisbon or travelling along Portugal’s Silver Coast, the Italian influence is alive and well. As in Italy, the art is amazing, the wine delicious and for those who enjoy a Mediterranean diet, there is plenty of fresh local fish, fruit, vegetables, and olive oil to savor.
Lisbon’s beautiful museums are filled with Roman and Italian art. The Museu Nacional De Arte Antiga has part of Piero della Francesca’s St Augustine altarpiece. It also has sculptures by Andrea and Girolamo della Robbia. They are believed to be pieces gifted by Pope Julius II to Dom Manuel I. The Gulbenkian Museum houses della Robbia’s Faith among its many treasures.
Lisbon is divided into districts or neighborhoods. Each is unique and portrays a city before and after the earthquake of November 1, 1755 that destroyed the city. The Igreja (church) do Carmo in the Baixa District is a good starting place to get a feel for the city before and after the disaster. November 1 was All Saints Day and the church was packed with worshippers when the 8.9 earthquake struck. The roof collapsed, the candles ignited fires that lasted for days. The church was never rebuilt but today, it is a museum as well as a central building for the Municipal Guard.
Lisbon is a magical city that has rebuilt itself following the devastating events of 1755. The combination of earthquake, tsunamis, and fires destroyed not only Lisbon but many of the surrounding areas. Walking the Districts that define Lisbon, I was struck by the rich art history of the churches, marveled at what survived, what was rebuilt, and managed to find an Italian connection in several of them. Here are a few to put on your list.
Barrio Alto District is home to the Igreja Sao Roque. Built in the 16th Century it is one of Portugal’s first Jesuit churches. The highlight is the Chapel of St. John the Baptist. It came right out of the Vatican. It was made in Rome by Italian architectural masters, then disassembled and shipped to Lisbon for its installation. The precious stones and materials make it the costliest chapel ever constructed in Portugal.
Continuing from Sao Roque, the Chiado District houses the Igreja de Loreto or the Chiesa Nostra Signora di Loreto. It is referred to as the “Italian Church”. This church was built by the Venetians and Genovese merchants who came to live and trade in the region. It just celebrated its 500th anniversary! The interior is beautiful, baroque and proudly displays the papal arms of Borromini, flanked by two angels. CEILING It is an experience to sit and look up at the beautifully decorated ceiling.
The Alfama District is home to the Igreja de Santo Antonio de Lisboa. Santo António de Lisboa is also known as Saint Anthony of Padua where he died in 1231. The church stands on the place where Saint Anthony was born. The Portuguese are fiercely protective and proud of their saint.
The church was rebuilt in 1767 and includes Saint Anthony’s statue that survived the earthquake, his birthplace’s crypt, and a very realistic canvas painting depicting the saint. If you are there June 12-13, you can experience Saint Anthony celebrations. Altars, parades, music, floats, marching bands and bonfires for grilling fresh sardines take place in every neighborhood with the grand parade marching down the Avenida da Liberdade.
Saint Anthony is ubiquitous in Portugal. Statues of the saint adorn churches, images are created in the ceramic tiles and there is an undercurrent of thought among many of the locals that the Italians, especially the Padovani, will come and reclaim their favorite saint. Perhaps, this explains the Plexiglas box protecting a lovely gold leaf statue of Santo Antonio that can be found in the exquisite Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaca, the largest Gothic church in Portugal. Alcobaca is a beautiful small town along Portugal’s Silver Coast.
Italy has influenced not only Lisbon but the many small towns up and down the coast. If your schedule permits, spend some time in Cascais. Cascais is a beautiful seaside resort town rich with Italian history. Portugal was neutral during World War II and this elegant town became home to many exiled royal families including King Umberto II of Italy (the last king of Italy). The Avenida Rei Humberto II de Italia is the main street in this beautiful, walkable city. To read more about travelling through Lisbon and Portugal’s Silver Coast,
following the link here: https://lacuisineus.com/travel-alert-agolden-time-along-portugals-silver-coast/ Elizabeth DiGregorio contributes to the blog Kitchen Detail https://lacuisineus.com/ dedicated to food and travel. Many of the articles explore Italy’s food, people and places to visit.